5 Lug Conversion
Toyota hub to Nissan Hardbody(D21) spindle
Thanks to photobucket for killing so many good forum threads with their BS, I figured I'd create a page about this conversion. The original build thread can be found here.... nis720 Nissan 5 lug swap take 2 ....but some of the pics have been killed by PB.
You'll want to verify this information for yourself. I pulled this from the thread.
Parts needed:
Hubs: Toyota Pickup wheel bearing hub 1984-95
posted by nis720:
Toyota truck hubs and rotors. 89-95 is the ideal year, since they share the same size bearings as the Nissan. The 83-88 appear to be similar and have been used. I found some 88 hubs that appear to be the same as the 89 and up. The older hubs look very similar but the flat part on the hub actually dips down.
From the research I did on the Toyota hubs, the 96-up changed alot. Different spindle and bearings.
Wheel seal: NATIONAL OIL SEALS Part # 710175. (by application: 1991 Suzuki Swift SOHC front outer seal) This is for the 89-94 Hubs, this is the rear seal that goes on the back of the Toyota Hubs to seal them to the Nissan spindles (larger diameter than Toyota spindle). NOTE!!! The DOHC seal is different, so make sure you get the SOHC or verify the part number!!
Napa was able to cross reference the part number I provided to their part number of 20906 for the seal.
***NOTE: This seal has a 53mm ID. The Nissan spindle has a 54mm diameter where the seal rides. It's a really tight fit. With a good layer of grease, it should go on and spin just fine, but you may experience more wear than normal. You can either replace the seal more often or have the spindles machined down to 53mm.
Parts needed:
Hubs: Toyota Pickup wheel bearing hub 1984-95
posted by nis720:
Toyota truck hubs and rotors. 89-95 is the ideal year, since they share the same size bearings as the Nissan. The 83-88 appear to be similar and have been used. I found some 88 hubs that appear to be the same as the 89 and up. The older hubs look very similar but the flat part on the hub actually dips down.
From the research I did on the Toyota hubs, the 96-up changed alot. Different spindle and bearings.
Wheel seal: NATIONAL OIL SEALS Part # 710175. (by application: 1991 Suzuki Swift SOHC front outer seal) This is for the 89-94 Hubs, this is the rear seal that goes on the back of the Toyota Hubs to seal them to the Nissan spindles (larger diameter than Toyota spindle). NOTE!!! The DOHC seal is different, so make sure you get the SOHC or verify the part number!!
Napa was able to cross reference the part number I provided to their part number of 20906 for the seal.
***NOTE: This seal has a 53mm ID. The Nissan spindle has a 54mm diameter where the seal rides. It's a really tight fit. With a good layer of grease, it should go on and spin just fine, but you may experience more wear than normal. You can either replace the seal more often or have the spindles machined down to 53mm.
Hub machining:
Basically, the shelves that the bearing races stop against, are modified to narrow the spacing between the bearings. The Nissan spindle is a bit shorter....approx. 1/8"-5/32"....than the Toyota spindle. This would cause people to over tighten the spindle nut or not install the cotter pin. By machining the shelves, the bearings sit closer together, allowing the spindle nut, castellated nut lock and cotter pin to be installed correctly. The 3/32" that is removed from the inner bearing shelf allows the rotor to center in the caliper, eliminating the need for spacers at the calipers. The nose of the hub is also machined down an 1/8" to help the dust cap clear the center cap of the rim. The pictures will give you an idea of how they're machined in the lathe. The video explains everything in even more detail.
Basically, the shelves that the bearing races stop against, are modified to narrow the spacing between the bearings. The Nissan spindle is a bit shorter....approx. 1/8"-5/32"....than the Toyota spindle. This would cause people to over tighten the spindle nut or not install the cotter pin. By machining the shelves, the bearings sit closer together, allowing the spindle nut, castellated nut lock and cotter pin to be installed correctly. The 3/32" that is removed from the inner bearing shelf allows the rotor to center in the caliper, eliminating the need for spacers at the calipers. The nose of the hub is also machined down an 1/8" to help the dust cap clear the center cap of the rim. The pictures will give you an idea of how they're machined in the lathe. The video explains everything in even more detail.
You can contact me about having this done to a set of hubs that you provide. I do not source the hubs. The price currently is $85, which includes return shipping in the US. The hubs need to be clean of grease and have the bearing races removed. There will be an addition charge of $20 to clean the grease and remove the races if that hasn't been done before they show up. If you need the outside diameter of the hub turned down, it will be an extra $15 per hub. It's not needed unless you are trying to do something custom with a non-captured rotor, like the EVO rotor shown in the build thread linked at the top of the page. I think I've provided enough info in the pics and vid that you can either do this yourself, if you have the equipment, or you can find a local machine shop that can do it.
If you are not familiar with how to remove the races, I show how I do it in this video......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU
Hub sourcing:
Ebay is a typical source for these hubs if you don't have a local scrap yard that has them available.
I'll provide this info as a possible source. I've spoken with Danesh Mahram directly on the phone and he's easy to work with. He has sent hubs directly to me to save the customer the added shipping cost.....but keep in mind that I'm going to charge for the cleaning and race removal.
JAPANESE TRUCK DISMANTLING , INC
940 Alameda St
Wilmington, CA 90744
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/
Store Hours (PST)
Monday-Friday 8.00AM To 5.00PM - SAT 8.00 AM To 3.00 PM
English: 310-835-3100, Espanol: 310-549-4443
ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/japanesetruck?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/Toyota-Pickup-Bearing-Hub-p/43502-39105.htm
Ebay is a typical source for these hubs if you don't have a local scrap yard that has them available.
I'll provide this info as a possible source. I've spoken with Danesh Mahram directly on the phone and he's easy to work with. He has sent hubs directly to me to save the customer the added shipping cost.....but keep in mind that I'm going to charge for the cleaning and race removal.
JAPANESE TRUCK DISMANTLING , INC
940 Alameda St
Wilmington, CA 90744
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/
Store Hours (PST)
Monday-Friday 8.00AM To 5.00PM - SAT 8.00 AM To 3.00 PM
English: 310-835-3100, Espanol: 310-549-4443
ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/japanesetruck?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/Toyota-Pickup-Bearing-Hub-p/43502-39105.htm
Dual Piston Caliper option
***Use this info at your own risk. I'm sharing it here for everyone's benefit, but I have not tested any of this. Don't hold me responsible if something isn't right. Please let me know if you find something wrong so that I can change this.
Ryan Carnwath had his Toyota hubs modified as above. He then went on to figure out which rotor would work with the dual piston Nissan calipers.
The rotor used:
BrakeBest Select Part# 96027RGS 257mm/10.118" dia
There may be other options that will work, but you should be able to cross reference that number to other suppliers.
Here are a couple of pictures of his setup. As you can see in the second picture, the calipers and pads line up correctly. The rotors are not that much bigger, but the dual piston calipers should be a nice upgrade from the single piston.
Here is an example of the 4wd calipers to use. **NOTE** According to Rockauto, this is the same caliper as the 2WD 6cyl caliper.
