5 Lug Conversion
Toyota hub to Nissan Hardbody(D21) spindle
ATTENTION: This conversion will NOT work on 720 spindles made prior to 12/85. The caliper mounting points are in a different location from the Hardbody(D21) mounts.
Thanks to photobucket for killing so many good forum threads with their BS, I figured I'd create a page about this conversion. The original build thread can be found here.... nis720 Nissan 5 lug swap take 2 ....but some of the pics have been killed by PB.
You'll want to verify this information for yourself. I pulled this from the thread.
Parts needed:
Hubs: Toyota Pickup wheel bearing hub 1984-95
posted by nis720:
Toyota truck hubs and rotors. 89-95 is the ideal year, since they share the same size bearings as the Nissan. The 83-88 appear to be similar and have been used. I found some 88 hubs that appear to be the same as the 89 and up. The older hubs look very similar but the flat part on the hub actually dips down.
From the research I did on the Toyota hubs, the 96-up changed alot. Different spindle and bearings.
**************************
NEW WHEEL SEAL INFO!!
This seal was found by Ted Sawyer. The ID matches the spindle correctly. The OD is bigger and requires machining .036" off the radius of the hubs seal mounting surface. Any hubs we machine will now include this as part of the work being done. The new wheel seal is approximately $10. Image further down the page.
The part number is:
TIMKEN or NATIONAL 473204
Application: 1975 K10/K20 Pickup/Suburban Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal
************************************************** No longer recommended*********************************************************
Previous Wheel seal: NATIONAL OIL SEALS Part # 710175. (by application: 1991 Suzuki Swift SOHC front outer seal) This is for the 89-94 Hubs, this is the rear seal that goes on the back of the Toyota Hubs to seal them to the Nissan spindles (larger diameter than Toyota spindle). NOTE!!! The DOHC seal is different, so make sure you get the SOHC or verify the part number!!
Napa was able to cross reference the part number I provided to their part number of 20906 for the seal.
***NOTE: This seal has a 53mm ID. The Nissan spindle has a 54mm diameter where the seal rides. It's a really tight fit. With a good layer of grease, it should go on and spin just fine, but you may experience more wear than normal. You can either replace the seal more often or have the spindles machined down to 53mm.
Parts needed:
Hubs: Toyota Pickup wheel bearing hub 1984-95
posted by nis720:
Toyota truck hubs and rotors. 89-95 is the ideal year, since they share the same size bearings as the Nissan. The 83-88 appear to be similar and have been used. I found some 88 hubs that appear to be the same as the 89 and up. The older hubs look very similar but the flat part on the hub actually dips down.
From the research I did on the Toyota hubs, the 96-up changed alot. Different spindle and bearings.
**************************
NEW WHEEL SEAL INFO!!
This seal was found by Ted Sawyer. The ID matches the spindle correctly. The OD is bigger and requires machining .036" off the radius of the hubs seal mounting surface. Any hubs we machine will now include this as part of the work being done. The new wheel seal is approximately $10. Image further down the page.
The part number is:
TIMKEN or NATIONAL 473204
Application: 1975 K10/K20 Pickup/Suburban Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal
************************************************** No longer recommended*********************************************************
Previous Wheel seal: NATIONAL OIL SEALS Part # 710175. (by application: 1991 Suzuki Swift SOHC front outer seal) This is for the 89-94 Hubs, this is the rear seal that goes on the back of the Toyota Hubs to seal them to the Nissan spindles (larger diameter than Toyota spindle). NOTE!!! The DOHC seal is different, so make sure you get the SOHC or verify the part number!!
Napa was able to cross reference the part number I provided to their part number of 20906 for the seal.
***NOTE: This seal has a 53mm ID. The Nissan spindle has a 54mm diameter where the seal rides. It's a really tight fit. With a good layer of grease, it should go on and spin just fine, but you may experience more wear than normal. You can either replace the seal more often or have the spindles machined down to 53mm.
Hub machining:
Basically, the shelves that the bearing races stop against, are modified to narrow the spacing between the bearings. The Nissan spindle is a bit shorter....approx. 1/8"-5/32"....than the Toyota spindle. This would cause people to over tighten the spindle nut or not install the cotter pin. By machining the shelves, the bearings sit closer together, allowing the spindle nut, castellated nut lock and cotter pin to be installed correctly. The 3/32" that is removed from the inner bearing shelf allows the rotor to center in the caliper, eliminating the need for spacers at the calipers. The nose of the hub is also machined down an 1/8" to help the dust cap clear the center cap of the rim. The pictures will give you an idea of how they're machined in the lathe. The video explains everything in even more detail.
Basically, the shelves that the bearing races stop against, are modified to narrow the spacing between the bearings. The Nissan spindle is a bit shorter....approx. 1/8"-5/32"....than the Toyota spindle. This would cause people to over tighten the spindle nut or not install the cotter pin. By machining the shelves, the bearings sit closer together, allowing the spindle nut, castellated nut lock and cotter pin to be installed correctly. The 3/32" that is removed from the inner bearing shelf allows the rotor to center in the caliper, eliminating the need for spacers at the calipers. The nose of the hub is also machined down an 1/8" to help the dust cap clear the center cap of the rim. The pictures will give you an idea of how they're machined in the lathe. The video explains everything in even more detail.
I'm adding this video to explain the dust cap clearance and why the nose is
machined .200" down instead of the previous .125".
This video is to show the new additional machining that is done to fit the new seal in the hub. The new seal is listed above and fits the spindle perfectly.
Sorry, I will no longer be doing this work.
I think I've provided enough info in the pics and vid that you can either do this yourself, if you have the equipment, or you can find a local machine shop that can do it.
If you are not familiar with how to remove the races, I show how I do it in this video......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU
I also have one for installing new races......
https://youtu.be/CIGgGICt33o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU
I also have one for installing new races......
https://youtu.be/CIGgGICt33o
SHIPPING HUBS FOR MACHINING
If you are looking to ship a set of hubs to us for this machine work, please watch this video. It will show the level of cleanliness the hubs need to have as well as how to pack the box to avoid it getting destroyed in the mail.
This box of hubs was actually packed better than most, but it was not reinforced on this side, inside the box. It was also not fully taped on the outside. Had this box ripped enough for a hub to fall out, there's a good chance the hub would not be found. If that happens, there is zero chance that you'll get the post office to find it, replace it or even refund your postage cost. That reality is true whether the package is insured or not. Boxes like these are processed on automatic conveyor systems in large sorting facilities with minimal human contact. The hub could fall out and the box still continue to be processed. Once separated, it's extremely unlikely they'll make it back together.
Hub sourcing:
Ebay is a typical source for these hubs if you don't have a local scrap yard that has them available.
I'll provide this info as a possible source. I've spoken with Danesh Mahram directly on the phone and he's easy to work with. He has sent hubs directly to me to save the customer the added shipping cost.....but keep in mind that I'm going to charge for the cleaning and race removal.
JAPANESE TRUCK DISMANTLING , INC
940 Alameda St
Wilmington, CA 90744
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/
Store Hours (PST)
Monday-Friday 8.00AM To 5.00PM - SAT 8.00 AM To 3.00 PM
English: 310-835-3100, Espanol: 310-549-4443
ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/japanesetruck?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/Toyota-Pickup-Bearing-Hub-p/43502-39105.htm
Dual Piston Caliper option
***Use this info at your own risk. I'm sharing it here for everyone's benefit, but I have not tested any of this. Don't hold me responsible if something isn't right. Please let me know if you find something wrong so that I can change this.
Ryan Carnwath had his Toyota hubs modified as above. He then went on to figure out which rotor would work with the dual piston Nissan calipers.
The rotor used:
BrakeBest Select Part# 96027RGS 257mm/10.118" dia
(application seems to be the 1 ton chassis, non-dually)
There may be other options that will work, but you should be able to cross reference that number to other suppliers.
Here are a couple of pictures of his setup. As you can see in the second picture, the calipers and pads line up correctly. The rotors are not that much bigger, but the dual piston calipers should be a nice upgrade from the single piston.
Here is an example of the 4wd calipers to use. **NOTE** According to Rockauto, this is the same caliper as the 2WD 6cyl caliper.
For drilled and slotted rotor options
Conversion Info for Rear
I certainly haven't vetted this info, but I get asked about how to do the rear.....a lot! This was posted to infamousnissan on FB, so I thought I'd add it here. I'll add other info as I find it.
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40967
http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40967